By Isabel Castrejón
The shirtdress is the perfect juxtaposition between what were considered the ultimate masculine and feminine wardrobe pieces. Now, as the lines of gender stereotypes are being blurred, the only thing to say about it is that by having one, you’ll obtain one of the most reliable items of clothing you’ll ever have. I can’t count the number of times I’ve dressed mine up or down, thinking that no one will notice that it’s the same dress I wore three days ago.
The shirtdress first emerged in the early 20th century when women were increasingly called to work. The shirtwaist (what we know as a blouse) and the skirt were eventually combined to form a more practical garment that buttoned down the front, very similar to a menswear garment. This switch in button positions was very reflective of the necessities of the time. Previously, back-buttoning blouses required assistance from a housemaid, a luxury not everyone could afford. Besides, the shirtdress was meant to be a working garment for nurses, waitresses, and factory workers—a dress for a new type of woman!
It was really the United States that made it their own when mass manufacturing took off, making the shirtdress available to the masses. In her Wall Street Journal article on the shirtdress, fashion writer Nancy McDonnell quotes a June 1938 Vogue magazine article that declared the shirtwaist dress “an American institution” and suggested one should be sealed in a time capsule “for the purpose of enlightening future civilizations about our own.” The clothing item went from uniform to everyday clothes, and with that, a number of versions appeared. The 1940s were significant for the shirtdress; once the economy bounced back, the silhouette was transformed once more. It was in 1947 when this dress became a member of the “high fashion garment club” with Christian Dior’s memorable ‘New Look’. This took the item away from its menswear-inspired codes and transformed the shape completely, making it undoubtedly feminine with a fuller skirt and small waistline. This set a precedent for what glamour meant and introduced us to a new generation of fashion, where the shirtdress could be worn during an evening event.
The 1960s were, in general, a more free-spirited era that made fashion more casual. Hemlines were shortened, and the cut became more A-lined, allowing shirtdresses not to be belted and to have a more natural fall on the body. The 1980s brought the idea of power-dressing, rooted in the necessity for women to look more powerful to compete with their male counterparts as workplaces began to diversify in gender. The elements of an 1980s shirtdress still haunt us today: padded shoulders and statement sleeves. The 1990s and this new century were accompanied by a new era in fashion, as grunge, minimalism, athleisure, and streetwear influenced silhouettes into a more casual fit, where practicality became a luxury.
When I think of shirtdresses in San Miguel de Allende, only one designer comes to mind: Christopher Fallon. Originally from New York, he is a self-taught designer who opened his showroom on 7th Avenue. He sold to over four hundred stores in the US, Canada, and Mexico. He opened his first couture boutique in town in 1993 in Fabrica La Aurora, and his atelier remains there to this day. A Christopher Fallon shirtdress is probably the most iconic item you can own from him. He cuts them like no other! They come in various shapes, patterns, colors, and sizes, bringing versatility to your wardrobe. You can wear most pieces with or without a belt. It can be a summer dress, a work dress, or an evening dress. You can even open it and wear it as a long over-shirt. The possibilities are endless. You can style it any way you desire!
What Christian Dior did in the 1940s with his “New Look,” due to the economic crisis, is becoming very relevant again today. As environmental issues, such as climate change, are modifying the way we consume fashion, it’s important for designers to convey why fashion matters. This is why investing in quality, timeless pieces that you can wear year-round is the way to go. For more than a hundred years, the shirtdress has had the ability to reinvent itself and to adapt to every situation that could surround a woman’s life, becoming a timeless clothing item. Let’s be honest: the chunky sneaker will be passé in a couple of months (or so I hope), but a shirtdress will remain your trustworthy partner in crime forever.
Isabel Castrejón is an art historian and a dancer. Born and raised in Puerto Vallarta, she moved to San Miguel in 2012 after dancing at the Poitiers conservatory of Arts in France for two years. She studied Art History at the Centro de Cultura Casa Lamb in Mexico City and has always been fascinated by the intertwined relationship between fashion and art. She currently teaches Art History at the Enes UNAM and classical dance at El Sindicato. She is the head of Wear San Miguel, an account dedicated to celebrating local designers and is one of the organizers of the event Fashion Parade.
Instagram: @wear.sanmiguel
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